How to Clean a Smelly Washing Machine: Step-by-Step Guide

You washed a clean load, pulled it out, and it smelled worse than when it went in. A sour, musty, gym-bag odor that clings to towels and follows you around the room. If that sounds familiar, you are not doing anything wrong with your laundry, and your clothes are not the problem. Your machine is. This guide covers how to clean a smelly washing machine from the drum to the door seal, why the smell keeps coming back, and how to stop it for good. I have run every one of these steps on my own front-loader, and I cite manufacturer instructions and health authorities throughout so you know where the advice comes from.

The short version: a smelly washer almost always has a buildup of biofilm, mold, and mildew feeding on leftover detergent, fabric softener, and trapped moisture. The fix is a hot cleaning cycle plus some hands-on scrubbing of the parts a cycle cannot reach. Let me walk you through it.

Why does my washing machine smell?

The odor is biological, not just “dirt.” Inside a washer, three things pile up: soap residue, fabric softener film, and body soils from your clothes. Add warm water and darkness, and you have created an ideal home for biofilm, a slimy layer of bacteria and mold that sticks to plastic and rubber. Mold and mildew then grow on top of it. That is the source of the smell, and it is why wiping the drum with a dry rag never fixes it.

Front-loading washers are the usual offenders. They use far less water than older top-loaders, they seal tightly, and they have a rubber door gasket (sometimes called the bellow or door boot) that traps water, lint, and detergent in its folds. Appliance manufacturers and repair technicians consistently name that gasket as the number-one spot for odor. After a wash, water pools in the low point of the seal, the door closes, and the pocket stays warm and damp until the next load.

A few habits make it worse:

• Using too much detergent. Excess soap does not rinse away. It coats the drum and lines the hoses, and biofilm eats it. Whirlpool’s own guidance is blunt: never use more than the recommended amount, and always use high-efficiency (HE) detergent in an HE machine.
• Fabric softener. Liquid softener leaves a waxy film that traps residue and feeds odor.
• Cold-water-only washing. Whirlpool recommends using warm and hot washes sometimes rather than exclusively cold, because cold water alone does not clear soil and detergent accumulation.
• Leaving wet laundry in the drum or shutting the door right after a cycle, so nothing ever dries.

This matters beyond the nuisance of a bad smell. The CDC notes that indoor exposure to mold can cause upper respiratory symptoms, cough, and wheeze even in healthy people, and can worsen symptoms in people with asthma or allergies (CDC, Mold and Your Health). A moldy gasket sitting inches from clothes you press against your skin is worth cleaning promptly, not just for freshness.

How to clean a smelly washing machine, step by step

Set aside about an hour of active time plus a couple of cleaning cycles. You do not need special skills. Here is the order I use.

Step 1: Clean the rubber door gasket (front-loaders)

This is where most of the smell lives, so start here. Peel back the folds of the rubber seal and look inside. You will usually find black or gray gunk, hair, lint, and sometimes a stray sock or coin. Whirlpool recommends wiping away loose debris with a soft cloth, then, for stubborn buildup, mixing warm water with a mild detergent and scrubbing the crevices with a toothbrush before wiping dry (Whirlpool, cleaning a front-load door seal).

For visible mold, a diluted bleach solution works well on the rubber. The CDC recommends no more than 1 cup of household bleach per gallon of water for mold on hard surfaces, which comes out to about one tablespoon per cup of water for a small batch (CDC, cleaning and disinfecting with bleach). Wear gloves, keep the room ventilated, and rinse and wipe the area dry afterward. The same deep-cleaning and gasket-first approach applies whether you are chasing a general musty smell or clothes that come out dingy, which I cover more fully in the guide to getting a musty smell out of towels.

Step 2: Remove and wash the detergent dispenser drawer

Pull the dispenser drawer all the way out (most release with a small tab or lever; check your manual). Old detergent and softener harden into a slimy crust here, and mold loves it. Soak the drawer in warm water, scrub the compartments and the softener tube with a toothbrush, and use a pipe cleaner or cotton swab to clear the tubes. Also scrub the empty cavity the drawer slides into, which is often furred with residue. Let everything dry before reinserting.

Step 3: Run a hot cleaning cycle with a machine cleaner or bleach

Now flush the parts you cannot reach. Empty the drum completely. Then pick one of these, never two at once:

• A washing machine cleaner. Place one tablet in the empty drum (not the dispenser) and run the Clean Washer cycle, or a Normal/Heavy cycle at the hottest setting. affresh, which Whirlpool and Maytag recommend by name, uses a time-release tablet designed to break down residue in the tub, pump, valves, and hoses (affresh, how to clean your washer). affresh, Tide Washing Machine Cleaner, and OxiClean Washing Machine Cleaner are all widely available through retailers like Amazon and work on both front- and top-loaders. Follow the box; hot water is what lets the tablet dissolve on schedule.
• Chlorine bleach. Whirlpool’s instruction is to add one cup (236 mL) of liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment and run the Clean Washer cycle. Do not exceed that amount, which “could cause washer damage over time,” and avoid thickened or no-splash bleach because it can cause excess suds (Whirlpool, removing washer odors).

If your washer has a dedicated Clean Washer, Tub Clean, or Self Clean cycle, use it; it runs longer and hotter than a normal wash and uses extra water specifically to rinse residue out. GE’s UltraFresh front-loaders, for example, have a Self Clean cycle meant to be run monthly, roughly every 40 loads (GE Appliances, Self Clean cycle). For more on that setting and what it does, see our explainer on the sanitize and clean-washer cycle.

Step 4: (Optional) Run a separate vinegar cycle, with a caveat

Distilled white vinegar is a mild acid that cuts soap scum and helps with odor, and many people swear by a vinegar cycle. It can work. But run it separately from any bleach cycle, and understand the trade-off. Maytag now advises against pouring vinegar into the machine because, over time, the acidity can degrade rubber seals, hoses, and gaskets (Maytag, stop cleaning with vinegar). Consumer Reports lists washing machines among things to be cautious cleaning with vinegar for the same reason. An occasional two-cup vinegar cycle is low risk; making it your monthly routine is not ideal for a front-loader. If you prefer vinegar and want the evidence on how well it actually deodorizes and disinfects laundry, we dig into that in does vinegar disinfect laundry.

Step 5: Clean the drain pump filter (front-loaders)

Many front-loaders have a drain pump filter, also called a coin trap, behind a small door at the lower front of the machine. Lint, hair, coins, and slimy residue collect here, and a clogged filter both traps odor and slows draining. Unplug the washer first. Lay down a towel and a shallow pan, because water will come out. Twist off the small drain hose cap to release the water in a controlled stream, then unscrew the filter counterclockwise, pull out the debris, and scrub the mesh with warm soapy water and a toothbrush before reinstalling. Check your manual, since not every model has an accessible filter.

Step 6: Wipe down and leave the door open to dry

After the cleaning cycle finishes, wipe the drum, the glass, and the gasket dry with a clean cloth. Then leave the door and the dispenser drawer open so the interior air-dries completely. This single habit does more to prevent odor than anything else, because it removes the moisture mold needs.

How often should you clean your washing machine?

Manufacturers converge on a monthly cadence for the machine cycle, with lighter daily and weekly upkeep in between. Here is the schedule I follow.

Task	How often	Why it matters
Wipe the door gasket dry	After each wash (or weekly)	Removes trapped water where mold starts
Leave door and dispenser open	After every load	Lets the drum air-dry; the top prevention step
Remove laundry promptly	Every load	Wet clothes breed odor within hours
Run a hot Clean Washer cycle	Monthly, or every 30 to 40 loads	Whirlpool: monthly or every 30 cycles; GE: about every 40
Wash the dispenser drawer	Monthly	Clears softener and detergent crust
Clean the drain pump filter	Every 1 to 3 months	Removes lint, coins, and biofilm
Deep-scrub gasket with detergent or diluted bleach	Monthly, or when you see mold	Kills visible growth in the folds

Whirlpool recommends running the Clean Washer cycle “at least once per month or every 30 wash cycles, whichever occurs sooner.” If your machine has a Clean Washer indicator light, run the cycle when it comes on. Households that wash daily, wash a lot of heavy soil, or run mostly cold cycles should lean toward the more frequent end.

Top-load vs front-load washers: what is different

Both types smell, but for different reasons and with slightly different fixes.

	Front-load washer	Top-load washer
Main odor source	Rubber door gasket; low water use leaves residue	Detergent buildup; agitator and tub; sitting water
Door habit	Leave door ajar to dry the sealed drum	High-efficiency models: leave lid open to dry
Gasket	Yes, needs regular wiping and scrubbing	No door boot; less trapped water
Cleaning cycle	Clean Washer cycle with cleaner or 1 cup bleach	Same; older agitator models tolerate more water
Vinegar risk	Higher (acid on seals and gaskets)	Lower, but still avoid routine use

Front-loaders are more prone to musty odor because their tight seal and low water volume leave more residue behind and less rinsing to carry it away. Traditional high-water top-loaders smell less often, but high-efficiency top-loaders behave more like front-loaders and benefit from the same open-lid, low-detergent habits.

Prevention: keep the smell from coming back

Cleaning solves today’s problem. These habits stop it from returning:

1. Use less detergent, and use HE detergent in an HE machine. Overdosing is the most common cause of residue. Measure to the line; more soap does not mean cleaner clothes.
2. Skip or minimize liquid fabric softener. Its waxy film feeds biofilm. Wool dryer balls or a splash of vinegar in the rinse (used occasionally) are gentler alternatives.
3. Wipe the gasket dry and leave the door open after every load.
4. Move laundry to the dryer promptly. Do not let a wet load sit overnight.
5. Run a warm or hot wash now and then. Not every load needs it, but exclusively cold washing lets soil and detergent accumulate.
6. Run your monthly maintenance cycle on schedule.

If you are dealing with odor because someone in the house was sick, or you want to know when a hot cycle actually kills germs versus just removing smell, those are separate questions with real science behind them. Our pillar on how to sanitize laundry and the specific guide to washing clothes and bedding after illness cover disinfection properly, including where a plain hot cycle falls short. You can browse every related how-to in the laundry and textile hygiene hub.

One safety rule you cannot skip

Never mix bleach and vinegar, and never run a bleach cycle right after a vinegar cycle without a rinse in between. Combining chlorine bleach with an acid like vinegar releases chlorine gas, which the CDC and state health departments warn can cause coughing, burning eyes and throat, chest tightness, and, at high concentrations, serious lung damage (Washington State Department of Health, bleach mixing dangers). Pick one cleaner per cycle. If you ever smell a sharp, pool-like odor while cleaning, stop, leave the room, and open windows.

When to call a professional

Most washer odors clear with the steps above. But if a strong sewage or rotten smell persists after a thorough clean, the problem may be in the drain, the standpipe, or a failing part, and that is a job for a plumber or appliance technician. Likewise, if you find heavy black mold spreading beyond the gasket, or the smell keeps returning within days despite good habits, have the machine inspected.

The bottom line

A smelly washing machine is a solved problem. The odor comes from biofilm, mold, and mildew feeding on detergent residue and trapped moisture, with the front-load door gasket as the usual culprit. Scrub the gasket, dispenser, and filter by hand, run a hot cleaning cycle with a machine cleaner or one cup of bleach (never mixed with vinegar), and then keep the door open so the drum dries. Do the hands-on cleaning monthly and adopt the small daily habits, and your clean laundry will finally smell clean.

This article is for general guidance and is not medical advice. If mold exposure is affecting your breathing or health, consult a healthcare professional, and consult a licensed technician for machine repairs.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my washing machine smell even after cleaning it?

If the smell returns quickly, biofilm is likely still lurking in a spot the cleaning cycle cannot reach, usually the rubber door gasket folds, the dispenser drawer, or the drain pump filter. Scrub those three by hand, then keep the door open to dry the drum. Persistent sewage-like odor that survives a deep clean can signal a drain or plumbing issue that needs a professional.

Is bleach or vinegar better for cleaning a washing machine?

Bleach disinfects and is what manufacturers like Whirlpool specify (one cup of liquid chlorine bleach in the bleach compartment on the Clean Washer cycle). Vinegar cuts soap scum but its acidity can degrade rubber seals and hoses over time, which is why Maytag now advises against routine vinegar use, especially in front-loaders. Whichever you choose, never use both in the same cycle, because mixing bleach and vinegar releases toxic chlorine gas.

How often should I clean my washing machine?

Run a hot Clean Washer or Tub Clean cycle about once a month, or every 30 to 40 wash cycles, which matches Whirlpool and GE guidance. In between, wipe the gasket dry, leave the door open after loads, and wash the dispenser drawer monthly. Clean the drain pump filter every one to three months.

Can I use a washing machine cleaner tablet like affresh?

Yes. affresh is recommended by name by Whirlpool and Maytag, and Tide and OxiClean make similar tablets sold at most retailers. Place one tablet in the empty drum (not the dispenser) and run the Clean Washer cycle or a hot Normal cycle so the time-release tablet dissolves correctly. Some residue left in the tub afterward is normal; just wipe it out.

Why do my clothes smell worse after washing?

Clean clothes pick up odor from the machine, not the other way around. Mold, mildew, and bacteria living on detergent and softener residue transfer their musty smell to your laundry, and front-load gaskets are the most common source. Deep-clean the machine, cut back on detergent and fabric softener, and dry the drum between loads to fix it.

Does leaving the washing machine door open really help?

Yes, it is the single most effective prevention step. Mold and mildew need moisture, so letting the drum and gasket air-dry after each load removes what they need to grow. Leave both the door and the dispenser drawer open between washes, and wipe the gasket dry when it looks wet.